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On the surface, the situation I was in would seem somewhat surprising. First, I was on a beach, in Europe, in summer. A fatal combination for anyone who enjoys silence and peace. Second, I was surfing. A sport where the actual action-to-waiting-around ratio has always seemed way too low for my taste. But in between those short-lived bursts of adrenaline and the ensuing mad swims back out to sea, I had found the perfect place to get lost in my thoughts—Far-off in the gently-bobbing waves, staring out at the horizon, waiting for the next big one. | ||
-Yannick |
haha you have too much energy to wait..didn’t you say you were extremely patient?! 🙂
gnarly dude